Another Rainy Day

It is another cold, rainy day in L'viv. We have only experienced two of these washouts since our arrival, so we cannot complain. Erik spent the day working on his book, Lea did several chores and made special, delicious Estonian mac and cheese, and Carter learned to paint. We picked up some watercolor paints last week and saved them for just such a day. Carter also watched his favorite show, Peep and the Big Wide World, on the web - today's episode was also about rain!

School Days

Today marked day three of the Day of Knowledge, extended due to September 1 falling on a Saturday this year. Erik found out that the opening convocation for first-year students at IFNU would start around 10 a.m., so we all made our way to the university. The plan was for Lea and Carter to play in the park and, if a public celebration was accessible, for all three of us to observe. As we approached the university, it became clear that there would indeed be a public ceremony - students were lining up across from the university's main building according to their departments. Students do not just enroll in a general education program at the university. Rather, they join a department in their first year. Unlike their American counterparts who can take years to choose a major, Ukrainian students begin their university studies in their major.

About 30 minutes before the ceremony began, the students were given instructions about moving to their departmental sections in an orderly fashion. The reminders continued until the students heard that the procession would begin in 90 seconds. The university rector (president), vice-rectors, mayor of L'viv, head of the regional assembly, and other notables marched across the street, and to a dais in front of the statue to Ivan Franko which was surrounded by blue and yellow flags. A student choir stood on the steps, along with senior members of the faculty and onlookers. The rector made a few remarks, followed by Vice Rector Kyrylych (who visited Kansas and our home a couple of years ago), and many others. The students played a prominent role in the event: students brought in the banner of the university, as well as a globe and other symbols of education; they performed in the choir; and senior students were called to the front as part of the assembly. But, students are students the world over, and many of the attendees talked on cellphones, flirted with one another, drank beer, and otherwise attended the ceremony only by virtue of physically being there. It was a nice, concise opening to the school year.

Memorials

We once again attended mass at the Roman Catholic Church near the apartment. We arrived early enough to get a central seating spot so that we could actually see what was going on. The mass focused on schoolchildren who are starting the academic year. Children served as lectors, recited prayers, and sang songs accompanied by a guitar (guitar music is not unusual for us, but we suspect that it may be a rare part of services in this church). Toward the end of mass, several young people spoke through tears about the 2004 massacre of schoolchildren in Russia. The school building was taken on September 1. Erik could not quite figure out if one girl who spoke was a survivor or lost friends/family. But, it was a deeply emotional moment with many in the church in tears.

After mass, we decided to go on a little journey to the Park of Culture via a sushi restaurant that has an advertisement on a small billboard outside our window. The food was fine, and satisfied Carter's desire for sesame noodles, but as in all Japanese restaurants (it seems), a bit overpriced. En route to the park we also helped a lost American find her way to the center of town. We are not experts on L'viv, but we have served as emergency guides to English-speaking tourists turned around in the winding streets of the city.

Lea and Carter had visited the Park of Culture before and noted the large Soviet war memorial at one end of the park (up many large staircases). Erik enjoys visiting old Soviet monuments, so was intrigued - especially since this heritage has largely been cleansed from L'viv. The entrance to the park was a traditional gaudy Soviet-style archway (Erik has seen these white colonnades in many parts of the former USSR) opening to a grand walkway. We ascended to the World War II memorial at the top (see the photo above and to the left). The memorial is in disrepair and notes that it is dedicated to the defeat of fascism. It shows representatives of the Ukrainian people (for example, a woman in traditional garb) happily welcoming their liberators (with bread, not flowers). On our way to the tramvai stop, we noticed a stone memorial facing the park. The Ukrainian emblem is engraved in it, along with the dedication: "To those who fought for the freedom of Ukraine" (see photo at the bottom of the post). It faces the entrance to the park and is a fitting bookend to the Soviet monument on the other side.

As we returned to the apartment after strolling about for a few hours, we saw a rally for the Svoboda Party on the main square. We watched and listened from our window for a while. Then, Erik went out to see the rally up close. A couple thousand people were on the main square, enthusiastically listening to national songs and speeches. The rally had some provocative signs promoting nuclear status for Ukraine and denouncing Russification. The speakers emphasized the strength of Ukrainians and the national idea. The rally turned into a procession to a memorial of political repressions (with connections to Stepan Bandera). A few hundred supporters, young and old, stepped in tune with the band playing patriotic songs and marched away, later returning to the Virgin Mary statue across from our apartment ending the rally with music and chants.

Cartersaurus Rex

Carter has taken to imitating dinosaurs for reasons only a toddler can understand. Here is Carter as a Tyrannosaurus Rex attacking his father. This is not the best version of Carter's dino-antics, but he does not like to perform for the camera. Still, it gives you a flavor of his sense of humor.

Day of Knowledge

September 1st is the traditional start of the school year for all students in Ukraine. Since it falls on a Saturday, celebrations in honor of this occasion are sprinkled throughout the weekend until Monday. Ivan Franko National University will have its main opening convocation on Monday. But, today several elementary and secondary schools held festive events.

We happened upon one during our morning walk to the park. From a distance, we heard prayers as though an outdoor mass were being held. Perhaps another Spas? As the volume grew louder and we came closer, we saw a large gathering of parents and children outside a school. The children were adorable - dressed in burgundy uniforms (dresses for girls, blazers for boys) with traditional Ukrainian costumes underneath. In front of the school, a priest was indeed invoking prayers to bless the opening of the academic year. The children formed a ring around him, holding flowers. Behind them were parents and onlookers, taking photos and videos of the occasion. Next to the priest was a small table with a Ukrainian flag and two bells, one draped in blue and the other in yellow (the colors of Ukraine). As we continued to walk to the park, we passed by many people in formal attire, and young women who appeared to be teachers wearing traditional shirts and modern skirts and carrying signs, apparently heading toward similar celebrations. We reflected a bit on how serious and attentive everyone seemed to be, in contrast to the university convocation at Kansas which is poorly attended (and not on the first day of classes). It is nice to see the opening of the school year treated as an important occasion, worthy of proper attire and a grand introduction.